Gamepad

Vibration Check

Verify that both rumble motors in your gamepad are working. Run quick presets or custom intensity tests on the left, right, or both motors.

Not Connected
Plug in your controller via USB or Bluetooth, then press any button and click Connect Controller.
No controller connected
Y X B A
Strong Motor Low-frequency · heavy rumble
0% Idle
Weak Motor High-frequency · buzzy detail
0% Idle

Vibration Intensity

0.50
0.50
500 ms

Quick Presets

How it works: Sends dual-rumble commands through the Gamepad API. Best on Chrome / Edge for Xbox & DualSense controllers via USB.
One motor silent? Try cable swap, retest in another browser, and confirm vibration works in a game. Persistent silence usually means hardware fault.
Battery drains fast: Long, max-intensity sessions wear motors and batteries. Use short bursts for diagnostics.

Controller Vibration Test: What This Tool Actually Does

If a game stopped rumbling, or you only feel it on one side of the controller, the issue is almost always one of the two rumble motors failing or losing power. The vibration tester at the top of this page sends signals directly to your controller through the browser, so you can check each motor in isolation, run side-by-side comparisons, and tune the intensity to find out exactly what's working and what isn't — without launching a game.

The test runs locally in your browser using the Gamepad API. There is nothing to install, no driver to download, and no data leaves your device. Connect any controller with a rumble motor — Xbox, PS5 DualSense, PS4 DualShock, Switch Pro Controller, or a generic PC pad — and the tester picks it up automatically the moment you press a button.

How a dual-motor rumble system works
LEFT Low-Frequency Motor strong · heavy rumble explosions, impacts RIGHT High-Frequency Motor weak · fine buzz UI feedback, weapon clicks

Most modern controllers have two unbalanced motors with different sizes and speeds. The bigger left motor produces deep, heavy rumble that you can feel through your palm; the smaller right motor produces a fast, fine buzz used for subtle feedback. A healthy test shows both pulsing independently.

How to Run the Vibration Test Correctly

The tester above gives you control over which motor fires, how strong it is, and how long it runs. To get a result you can trust, follow this short sequence rather than just hitting buttons randomly — a methodical test tells you exactly which motor has the problem.

1

Connect and confirm

Plug in via USB or pair over Bluetooth, then press any button on the controller. The tester reads your controller's ID and switches to its live view. If the controller doesn't show up, try a different USB port or re-pair the Bluetooth connection — some browsers also need a manual click on the page first to activate the Gamepad API.

2

Test each motor on its own

Run the left motor only at full intensity for two or three seconds. You should feel a heavy, low-frequency rumble through the left grip. Then run the right motor only — you should feel a faster, lighter buzz through the right grip. If only one side responds, that's the side with a problem.

3

Test both motors together

Now run both motors at full intensity. A healthy controller produces a noticeably stronger combined rumble than either motor alone. If the combined output feels identical to a single motor, you've confirmed that one of the two is dead, even if it felt slightly active in step 2 (sometimes the weak motor is just spinning without producing real force).

4

Sweep the intensity

Slowly lower the intensity from 100% down toward 0% on each motor. The rumble should fade smoothly. A motor that cuts out abruptly at, say, 40% intensity rather than fading gracefully is a sign of failing brushes inside the motor — it'll still work at full power for now but will degrade further.

5

Test duration

Finally, run a longer pulse — ten seconds at full intensity. Healthy motors run smoothly the entire time. If you hear or feel the rumble stutter, weaken halfway through, or change pitch unexpectedly, the motor is on its way out even if shorter tests passed.

Reading the Results

Once you've finished the sequence, you'll fall into one of four common outcomes. Match what you felt against the cards below to know what to do next.

Both motors strong

Independent test passed on each side, combined output is clearly stronger, intensity sweep fades smoothly. Your controller is healthy. No action needed.

Healthy

One side weak

One motor clearly fires but feels softer than expected, or cuts out at low intensities. Likely worn brushes or a partially failing motor — still usable but watch for it getting worse.

Degrading

One side completely dead

Only one motor responds. The other is unresponsive at every intensity. Likely a disconnected wire, broken solder joint, or completely failed motor — needs repair for full functionality.

Repair needed

Why Controller Vibration Stops Working

Rumble issues come from a small set of well-known causes. Diagnosing which one you have tells you whether to dig into the controller yourself, send it for repair, or move on to a new pad.

Worn or broken motor brushes

The vibration motors inside game controllers are small unbalanced DC motors. Like all brushed DC motors, the carbon brushes that deliver current to the spinning shaft wear down over time. Worn brushes produce weaker rumble, intermittent operation at low intensities, and eventually no rumble at all. There's no software fix — the motor needs replacement, which on most controllers means soldering a new one in.

Loose or broken solder joints

Both motors are wired to the controller's main board with two solder points each. If a controller has been dropped repeatedly, or has spent time in a hot car, those joints can fracture. The motor itself is fine, but it's no longer getting power. This is one of the most fixable failures — if you're comfortable with a soldering iron, re-flowing the joint takes a minute and often restores full function.

Firmware or driver issues

Sometimes the motors are fine and the controller just isn't being told to rumble. On PC, this usually means an outdated controller driver or a game using an older input API that doesn't support your pad's rumble protocol. On PS5 specifically, a small percentage of DualSense units develop firmware issues after major updates that disable haptics until the controller is reset.

Battery or power issues (wireless controllers)

Rumble motors draw significant current. On a wireless controller with a low battery, the system will throttle or disable vibration to preserve power even at 30–40% battery remaining. If your rumble suddenly weakens or vanishes mid-session, check battery level before assuming hardware failure — the issue may disappear once the controller is fully charged. You can verify this with our Battery Check tool.

PS5 DualSense Haptics vs Standard Rumble

If you own a PS5 DualSense, the situation is more complex than a standard rumble check. The DualSense doesn't actually use two unbalanced motors like older controllers — it uses two voice coil actuators that can produce finely controlled vibrations of variable frequency and amplitude. This is what Sony calls "haptic feedback," and it's why DualSense rumble feels qualitatively different from a DualShock 4 or Xbox controller.

ControllerRumble TechnologyWhat to expect
Xbox One / SeriesDual rumble motors + impulse triggersStrong/weak split, plus separate motors in each trigger
PS4 DualShock 4Dual rumble motorsClassic strong-left, weak-right unbalanced pair
PS5 DualSenseDual voice coil actuatorsVariable-frequency haptics, smoother than motors
Switch Pro / Joy-ConHD Rumble (linear actuators)Fine-grained directional haptics
Generic PC padsDual rumble motors (usually)Same pattern as older console controllers

The browser's Gamepad API uses a standard "dual-rumble" interface, which means the DualSense's advanced haptic system gets simplified down to a strong/weak two-channel signal during this test. That's a limitation of the web standard, not the controller. If both channels respond on a DualSense, your haptics hardware is working — you just won't feel the full nuance you'd get inside a game like Astro's Playroom or Returnal.

The fastest controller-vibration diagnosis is the left-only, right-only, both together test. If both sides feel identical, one motor is gone. If both feel different and combining them makes a clear difference, your rumble is fine. The test takes about ten seconds.

How to Fix Controller Vibration That Stopped Working

If the test confirms one or both motors are dead, work through the fixes from cheapest to most involved.

1. Check the easy stuff first

Restart the controller (hold the central button for ten seconds, or use the reset pinhole on the back of a DualSense). Charge it to 100%. Try a different cable or USB port. Test on a different device. About one in five "broken vibration" reports turn out to be a low battery, a flaky cable, or a software glitch that clears with a restart.

2. Verify the issue isn't game-side

Some games either don't support rumble at all or have vibration disabled by default in their settings. Test rumble in at least two known-good games or with the tester on this page before concluding the hardware is at fault.

3. Re-pair and update

Forget and re-pair the controller from your console/PC. On Xbox, run the Accessories app to check for and install controller firmware updates. On PS5, Settings → Accessories → Controllers shows the current DualSense firmware version. On PC, install the latest official driver from the controller manufacturer if available.

4. Open it up (advanced)

If the test still shows one side completely dead and the controller is out of warranty, opening it and inspecting the motor wires is the next step. Both DualSense and Xbox controllers have plenty of YouTube teardown tutorials. Look for two small motors mounted in each grip, each with red and black wires going to the main board. A loose connection usually shows up immediately as a black scorch mark or a wire that's snapped clean off. Re-solder, or order a replacement motor for $5–10 and swap it.

5. Replace the controller

If the motor is fine but firmly mounted and the wires look intact, the controller's rumble driver chip on the main board has likely failed. That's a board-level repair that costs almost as much as a new controller — not worth doing unless you specifically want to keep this exact controller. For a 2+ year old pad, replacement is usually the rational choice.

Once you've finished testing rumble, it's worth running a few of the other free checks on the same controller. The Joystick Test reveals stick drift, the Gamepad Tester confirms every button and trigger registers, and the Latency Test measures your controller's response time in milliseconds.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I test if my controller vibration is working?
Use the controller vibration test on this page. Connect your gamepad and press any button to activate it, then run the left motor only, the right motor only, and both together. A healthy controller produces a clear, separate rumble from each motor and a stronger combined output when both fire at once. If one side is silent or both feel identical, you have a vibration fault.
Why is my controller not vibrating?
The most common causes are a low battery (most wireless controllers disable rumble below 30–40%), a game with vibration turned off in its settings, an outdated controller driver, or a hardware failure of one of the rumble motors. Run the test on this page first — if it confirms rumble works in the browser, the issue is game-side or driver-side, not hardware.
How do I fix my PS5 controller vibration issues?
Start with a full controller reset using the small recessed button on the back of the DualSense near the lanyard hole, then re-pair with your PS5. Update controller firmware via Settings → Accessories → Controllers. Make sure haptic feedback isn't turned down in Accessibility settings. If the test on this page confirms one side is dead after all that, the voice coil actuator needs hardware repair or controller replacement.
Why does my Xbox controller vibrate then disconnect?
This is almost always a battery issue. Rumble motors briefly spike current draw, and a near-empty battery or worn-out batteries can't sustain it, causing the controller to brown out and disconnect. Replace the batteries with fresh ones (or swap to a rechargeable pack), then re-test. If it still happens with fully charged power, the rumble motor itself may be drawing excess current due to internal damage.
What's the difference between rumble and haptic feedback?
Traditional rumble uses two unbalanced motors that simply spin to create vibration — you can have it on or off, strong or weak, but the feeling is uniform. Haptic feedback (used in the PS5 DualSense and Switch Joy-Cons) uses voice coil or linear actuators that produce precise, variable-frequency vibrations, so a game can simulate the feel of rain, sand, or different surface textures. Both are tested the same way in the browser though.
Can vibration motors be replaced?
Yes, on most controllers. Replacement rumble motors cost $5–10 and are available on parts sites for Xbox, PS4, PS5, and Switch Pro controllers. The job requires opening the controller, desoldering the failed motor's two wires, and soldering in a new one. Difficulty is moderate — YouTube has step-by-step teardowns for every popular controller. If you're not comfortable soldering, a repair shop typically charges $20–40.
Does the controller vibration test work in any browser?
It works in any modern browser that supports the Gamepad API and its dual-rumble extension — that includes recent versions of Chrome, Edge, Firefox, and Opera. Safari has only partial Gamepad API support, so rumble may not trigger there. For best results, use Chrome or Edge on desktop with your controller connected via USB for the first test.
Related Tools

You Might Also Like

Guides & Articles

Helpful Guides

In-depth articles on testing, fixing, and optimizing your gaming gear.