Mouse

Mouse Button Check

Press each button on your mouse and watch it light up. Verify left, right, middle, scroll, and side buttons all register correctly in seconds.

Press each button to test 0/7
Click and scroll inside the test area below. Each button you trigger gets ticked off. Side buttons (Back/Forward) need a gaming mouse with 5 or more buttons.
WIRED MOUSE P
Scroll Up 0
Scroll Down 0
Click & Scroll Here Try left-click, right-click, scroll wheel (up + down), middle click (press the wheel), and side buttons (Back/Forward) if your mouse has them.
Left Click 0 clicks
Right Click 0 clicks
Middle Click 0 clicks
Scroll Up 0 ticks
Scroll Down 0 ticks
Back (Btn 4) 0 clicks
Forward (Btn 5) 0 clicks

Recent Events

Last 10 button events with timestamps
No events yet

Test Every Button on Your Mouse

A mouse is more than two clickers and a wheel. A typical gaming mouse has anywhere from five to a dozen inputs, and any one of them can fail silently — a side button that stops registering, a scroll wheel that skips, a middle click that no longer presses. This tool lights up each input the instant you trigger it, so a sixty-second pass tells you exactly what works and what doesn't. If a button doesn't respond here, it won't respond in your games or your work either.

6+inputs on a typical gaming mouse
0installs or downloads needed
~60sfor a full button pass

It runs through the browser, reading raw mouse events as you fire them. Nothing is installed and nothing leaves your device. Works with any wired or wireless mouse the browser can see — gaming mice, office mice, trackpads, and trackballs all report their buttons the same way.

The Inputs It Detects

Browsers expose mouse buttons through a standard event model. Here's every input the tester can see and what each one is for.

Left button
The primary click. Selecting, firing, confirming. The most-used switch and usually the first to wear out.
Right button
The secondary/context click. Aiming down sights, opening menus. Wears slower than the left but fails the same way.
Middle / wheel click
Pressing the scroll wheel down. Often used for melee or opening links in a new tab. A common point of intermittent failure.
Scroll up / down
Wheel rotation in each direction. A wheel that skips or scrolls the wrong way has a worn or dirty encoder.
Side buttons (back / forward)
Thumb buttons, usually mapped to browser navigation or game binds. Easy to overlook until one quietly dies.
Extra buttons
Sniper buttons, DPI shift, and programmable macros on gaming mice. These report as additional button indices.

How to Run a Complete Check

Don't just click around randomly — a methodical pass is the only way to be sure you've covered every input. Follow this checklist.

  • Left-click and right-click several times each. Both should register every single press with no misses.
  • Press the scroll wheel straight down for a middle click. Confirm it triggers without needing extra force.
  • Scroll up and scroll down slowly. Each notch should register cleanly in the correct direction, no skips or reversals.
  • Press each side button. If your mouse has back and forward thumb buttons, both should light up distinctly.
  • Trigger any extra buttons — sniper, DPI, macro keys. Note which index each maps to.
  • Repeat the whole pass once more. Intermittent faults often hide on the first try and only show on the second.
Key point

A button that works most of the time is still a failing button. If a press misses even once in twenty, the switch has begun to wear — it won't get better, only worse. Catch it now and you can plan a fix before it fails mid-game.

What Common Faults Look Like

Each failure mode has a recognizable signature in the tester. Match what you see to the cause.

A press doesn't register at all
Dead switch or broken solder joint. The contact isn't completing the circuit. Needs a switch replacement or re-solder.
One press registers as two
Switch bounce from a worn contact — the classic double-click fault. Test it precisely with the double-click checker.
Scroll skips or jumps direction
Dirty or worn scroll encoder. Sometimes cleared with compressed air; otherwise the encoder needs replacing.
Side button needs extra force
Debris under the button or a tiring switch. Early warning that the switch is on its way out.

Why Buttons Fail

Every clickable input on a mouse sits on top of a tiny mechanical switch rated for a finite number of presses — typically tens of millions for quality switches, far fewer for budget ones. Each press flexes a metal contact; over time that metal fatigues, oxidizes, or collects dust, and the clean make-or-break of the circuit degrades. That's when misses and double-clicks appear. Scroll wheels use a separate component called an encoder, which wears through a similar mechanism and produces skipping or phantom scrolls as it ages. Heavy use, aggressive clicking, and cheap components all shorten the timeline.

If this checker surfaces a problem, the specialized tools narrow it down: the Double Click Test confirms a switch-bounce fault precisely, the Click Speed Test shows whether your clicking style is stressing the switches, and the DPI Analyzer verifies the sensor still tracks accurately.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I test all my mouse buttons?
Use the mouse button tester on this page. Click left and right several times, press the scroll wheel down for a middle click, scroll up and down, then press each side button and any extra macro or DPI buttons. Each input lights up when it registers. Run the full pass twice — intermittent faults often hide on the first attempt and only appear on the second.
Why is one of my mouse buttons not working?
If a button doesn't register at all, the most likely cause is a dead switch or a broken solder joint — the contact isn't completing the circuit. For side buttons, debris underneath can also block the press. Confirm the fault with this tester first; if the button is genuinely dead, it needs a switch replacement or re-solder, which is a cheap fix on a quality mouse and often covered under warranty.
Does this tester work with gaming mice that have extra buttons?
Yes. Browsers expose mouse buttons through a standard event model, and extra inputs like sniper buttons, DPI-shift buttons, and programmable macro keys report as additional button indices. The tester shows each one as you press it, along with the index it maps to — useful when a game asks you to bind "button 4" or "button 5" and you need to know which physical button that is.
Can I test my scroll wheel here too?
Yes. Scroll up and scroll down each register as the wheel turns, and pressing the wheel straight down triggers the middle click. If scrolling skips notches, jumps the wrong direction, or registers phantom scrolls you didn't make, the scroll encoder is dirty or worn. A blast of compressed air sometimes clears debris; a worn encoder needs replacing.
My side buttons aren't detected — is the mouse broken?
Not necessarily. Some mice route their side buttons through manufacturer software rather than standard button events, so they may not appear in a browser tester even though they work in games. Try the buttons in their normal use first. If they work elsewhere but not here, it's a software-mapping quirk, not a hardware fault. If they don't work anywhere, the switch or its wiring has failed.
How many clicks should a mouse button last?
Quality mechanical switches are rated for 20–50 million clicks, which for most users is several years of normal use. Budget switches may be rated for far fewer. Heavy gaming and aggressive clicking techniques accelerate wear, so a hard-used mouse can develop missed clicks or double-clicks much sooner. When a button starts missing or doubling, the switch is reaching the end of its rated life.
Is a misbehaving button worth repairing?
On a premium or favourite mouse, yes — replacement switches cost a dollar or two and swapping one is a standard solder job, or a repair shop will do it cheaply. The rest of the mouse is usually fine, so it's wasteful to replace the whole thing over one switch. On a cheap office mouse, replacement is rarely worth the effort. Check your warranty first; button faults are often covered.
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